Everyone who knows me knows how much I love
Europe. When I dream about the next destination to travel,
my mind inevitably goes to London, Italy, France, etc. I
have extremely fond memories of traveling in 2011 and 2012
and I can’t wait to be back. I can’t wait to get back to
road trips through the country side, the amazing food, and
the incredible culture and architecture. This post on
Ireland is from 2011, when I first visited this tiny
country.
Ireland was never one of the places that I sought to visit
up until recently. It was always a place associated with
that weird accent – or so I thought when I was in
highschool. But when I arrived in London just over 3 months
ago, I realized that it had everything that I now wanted to
see: natural surroundings, ocean, great food, and a varied
culture. That is when the research started. While it only
begun with Dublin and Galway, I soon discovered through the
wonders of Google that there was much more to be seen in
Ireland. One of those things was the Ring of Kerry.
As the control freak that I am, I had an itinerary in mind
but what we saw in Ireland was far from what I expected. The
first day began with us (Jennifer and me) spending a day in
Dublin – Ireland’s capital. While Dublin was a place that
you had to say that you at least saw, we were mildy
disappointed by the city as it was just that, a big city.
The architecture was not particularly unique to Europe but I
have to confess, I don’t think I give Dublin enough credit.
Well, this trip was more about the country side anyway.
After spending a day in Dublin, we took the early train to
Galway in western Ireland. It was a smooth train ride and
only about 2.5 hours long. Since I don’t mind long trips
(good earphones will do the trick), I actually enjoyed it!
We didn’t spend any time in Galway though as we caught a
taxi straight to the airport to pick up our car and headed
off.
The first thing I noticed about the roads in Ireland was how
incredibly narrow some of them were. Lots of curves, narrow
roads, blind corners, and lots of hills. That was
essentially what we drove through. Some roads were so narrow
that only 1 car could get through at a time yet the speed
limit in both directions was 100km/h. Not surprisingly,
people have been killed on this road. Driving around the
Ring of Kerry, we were told by many to go counter clockwise
but we went clockwise anyway because it was more convenient
for us and we had a small car. The reason for this is that
coaches and big buses go clockwise and well, if you went
around a small bend with a coach in front of you, there is a
danger you could be hit! For those of you who watch anime,
it was like Initial D but with oncoming traffic lol.
Eventually, when you got used to the speed and the curves
though, it became a very fun drive!
When it comes down to it, the experience would not be the
same if we had not driven. Those of you who are looking to
visit the Ring of Kerry, you really should consider driving.
Just rent a small car and drive carefully. People in Ireland
are very nice and patient, they will just pass you if they
get a chance but rarely do they honk on that road. By
driving you can venture off into off paths and you can stop
whenever you want! Plus, the drive along the coast of
Ireland is incredible. There was stunning landscape after
stunning landscape. We wanted to stop every chance we could
get.
P l a c e s V i s i t e d
The first stop along the way down south was the Cliff’s of
Moher. Leading up to it, the landscape was gorgeous. Rolling
green hills, stones, old houses, and lots and lots of ocean.
It all looked so natural and untouched. The Cliff’s of Moher
are a huge landmark in western Ireland. In fact, it is being
lobbied for being named one of the 7 natural wonders of the
world. The first thing I noticed was just how huge those
cliffs were (over 200 meters high). The sheer scale of it
was jaw dropping. The waves crashed up on the foot of the
cliffs and the winds carried crisp, cold, fresh air. It was
really a sight that takes your breath away. I came back
again during sunset the next day to get some pictures in
that lighting. Note that you can stay on the cliffs as long
as you want or at any time.
We then drove about 3 hours further south to reach the town
of Killarney where we stayed the second night. A great town
where there are loads of nice restaurants, pubs, and
scenery. It is also the home to Killarney National Park,
which apparently has some incredible natural green hills and
beautiful lakes, but unfortunately, we didn’t have time to
go. I did have an amazing meal there though (see below on
food).
The rest of it is history. Along the Ring of Kerry, we drove
through many towns but made stops in Kenmare, Sneem,
Waterville, Ballinskelligs (where you can catch a boat out
to the Skellig Michael). All had different characteristics
but they all had that small town feel to them. People knew
each other and how could they not? The houses don’t even
appear on the GPS and they don’t have house numbers in some
of these towns. I loved how laid back and friendly the
people were and it made me realize that this is the way it
should be. We have it all wrong in the city sometimes.
All in all, we saw so much while we drove around. Ireland is
an incredibly beautiful country with so much to see. I might
not have enjoyed this as a kid when I was less appreciative
about scenery but this trip wow’d me. I will definitely be
back to see the rest of Ireland sooner rather than later.
A c c o m m o d a t i o n s
We had a total of just 3 nights to complete what we had in
our itinerary and we moved around quite a bit (being a road
trip and all) but we ended up staying at some nice places
that were not too expensive. Call me a snob but we did not
stay in any hostels along the way. A big part of the
experience in places like Ireland is the fact that you get
to stay in just about any bed and breakfast and enjoy the
home cooked meal, the homely hospital and comfort. Of
course, while I say this, we ended up staying in a hotel in
Dublin (haha).
First Night - We stayed at the Central Hotel (1-5
Exchequer Street, Dublin, Ireland) for our first night in
Dublin. It was only €89 for the night and it was situated
within the centre of the city so it was very convenient (ie.
Temple Bar, Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Christ’s Church were
all within a 10 minute walking distance). The room was also
very clean and lots of natural light came in as well. Wifi
was also provided for free all over the hotel. Believe it or
not, this is a huge benefit as you have to pay for this
service in most metropolitan tourist hotspots such as London
and New York for example. Overall, I would recommend this
place for a short stay.
Second Night - By the second night, we had taken a 2.5 hour
train ride to Galway and driven over 5 hours south so we
were fairly tired. Eventually we made our way down to
Killarney within the County of Kerry. We booked our stay at
the Earls Court House (Woodlawn Road, Killarney, Ireland).
From the outside, it looks like a very nice country style
home. You could tell that they placed an enormous amount of
attention to detail as it was very presentable both inside
and out. The bedding and the room itself was spacious,
clean, and in many ways, looked quite luxurious. The
great thing about a bed and breakfast is how there is a
distinct lack of commercial feel to the surroundings. The
lady we spoke to at the front desk (who, I’m not afraid to
say was easily the prettiest girl I saw all trip long haha)
gave us great advice for places to eat for dinner. The
breakfast that was served at the B&B was also extremely
tasty and very filling. Be sure to try their porridge! I
highly recommend this B&B not only for value but for
convenience as well. It was only €99 per night for our room
and it was a 10 minute walk into the main road where a
number of great restaurants are situated.
Third Night – On the third evening, we chose to stay nearby
Galway but out far enough that we could still enjoy the
country side. We ended up booking a room at the Atlantic
View B&B (Pier Road, Doolin, Ireland) in Doolin
(which was about an hour and a half drive from Galway).
Situated right by the coast, you get a fantastic view of the
coast straight out of the bedroom window and you can see the
cliff’s that lead up to the Cliff’s of Moher (only a 10-15
minute drive). The other side of the house, you could see
fields with cows grazing on the grass. You get the picture,
this place is situated right in the midst of the country
side and that in itself is the experience. The decor was
very country style but again, very homey. It wasn’t quite as
luxurious as the Killarney experience but it was a fine
place for a one night stay. We were also provided with a
decent breakfast before we headed back to Galway for our
train ride. Overall, I would recommend this B&B for its
location and simple hospitality.
F o o d
Dublin. When I thought of Ireland, I did not
originally think of the food as being a major highlight. I
thought, bacon, sausages, poached egg and black pudding, but
did not think about how good this food might be. In Dublin,
we had quite simple meals such as Irish Fish and Chips at
the Elixir (not too different from English fish and chips
but the sauce was distinctly more citrusy than that of the
regular tartar sauce we get). Not a place I would
necessarily come back to.
We also found a cafe called Queen of Tarts which was packed
with tourists. Providing caffeinated drinks as well as many
different types of desserts and pastries was their
specialty. I enjoyed a carrot cake (dubbed the best in
Dublin) and double espresso for an afternoon snack here.
Overall, nice out door setting and the food was quite
decent.
Killarney. On the second day, we didn’t have a
proper meal until dinner since we were driving around and
did not have much time to waste but after we checked into
our B&B, we asked for a recommendation for good ol’
Irish cuisine. The pretty lady suggested Bricin down in the
heart of the town. It was only a 10 minute walk and when we
arrived, we found the place was very busy (always a good
sign). We ended up getting the 3 course set menu for €26 and
enjoyed it thoroughly. The last time I had such a good meal
was... probably back at Vij’s in Vancouver! The seafood
chowder made me want to take my friend’s plate and finish it
all off for her. I couldn’t put the spoon down it was so
good. For the entree, I had the boxty (an Irish specialty
that is essentially a potato omelette) filled with chicken
and vegetables in cream sauce. Now, if that isn’t like a
home cooked meal, I don’t know what is. It was delicious!
Absolutely, I would recommend this restaurant to ANYONE in
the area. Though, I heard that there are impressive
restaurants all around Killarney, this one definitely stood
out to me.
For breakfast the following day, we ate at the B&B
(breakfast provided) and it was great. There is a self serve
counter filled with all your essentials such as cereal,
porridge, milk, coffee, tea, juice, fruits, etc. Their
porridge had won awards in past years and it was indeed so
good that I had to go back for seconds. They also serve a
great Irish breakfast as well (consisting of sausage, bacon,
poached egg and tomato).
Doolin. By the time we checked into our
B&B it was already 9:45pm and most restaurants in the
small town of Doolin were closed or no longer serving.
However, we were recommended to go to the O’Connors Pub just
down the street and grab some grub there. Now, I don’t know
about you but I have learned not to expect much from pub
food. So we went there and noted right away how busy it was
despite it being based in such a small town. It was loud in
there but not in any way that would be obnoxious, people
were greeting one another and they all knew each other it
seemed (other than the tourists) and this made for a great
atmosphere! We quickly ordered our meals (lamb stew with
mash and baked salmon) and grabbed my first of a few pints
of Guinness and sat down. The food came within 10 minutes
and we were given a table even though it was packed with
people (the waitress had taken the initiative to ask others
to give way for us – talk about service!).
Remember how I said that I don’t expect much from pub food?
Well this was on a league of its own. The lamb stew was
mouth wateringly good. The meat was tender and the stew had
enormous flavour. It was the best meat stew I have ever had.
I also then tried my friend’s salmon. If you are like me, I
am always afraid that salmon would be overcooked. Well, we
were very happily surprised. The salmon was delicious and
very moist. Far above average... in fact, if this had come
from a Michelin star restaurant, I would be surprised in
terms of texture and overall flavour. Really great food and
a great atmosphere, what more could one want from a
neighbourhood pub? Sorry, no pictures of this since we were
too hungry and forgot to take pictures before scarfing our
food down haha.
Guinness. Since this beer is world famous and
is from the country of Ireland, it deserves a section of its
own. I love my beer and Guinness is definitely high on the
list. It doesn’t matter which country you are in, you can
find some good Guinness wherever you go. However, it is
different in Ireland. If you get a pint from the tap, you
will taste the difference in that it is smoother and somehow
seems more refreshing than compared to the other parts of
the world.
I m p r e s s i o n s
Our impressions of Ireland were a surprise to us. When people ask me what my favorite country was, I have to say that Ireland is right up there. Maybe we got lucky with the weather but Ireland is truly an incredibly beautiful place that everyone should give a chance.
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